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Papeete is a working port city and the arrival point for the whole of French Polynesia, not a resort — and a guided walk is the fastest way to stop treating it as merely the place the airport is. The covered market is the centre of it, the waterfront carries the ferries to Moorea, and in the evening the roulottes, open-air food trucks, take over Place Vaiete. Most walks run in the morning, before the heat and while the market is busy.
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